In India, Used Car market continues to boom, beating slow down due to covid & other economic factors. The used car market remains insulated from the prolonged slowdown in the auto industry. Used Cars, with their attractive pricing and enhanced quality, remain a viable alternative for a large section of customers looking to purchase a car. The overall increment in buying power of semi urban & rural consumers and the need for a comfortable lifestyle for millennials has fueled the growth of this segment.

There are a large number of customers who are migrating upwards from owning two wheelers to car buyers, where used cars end up being a very persuasive option for them. Nearly 80% of used car customers are two wheeler upgraders/first time buyers, therefore, yes first time buyers are also considering used cars as their first car to own. People are now seeking value for money over the used car stigma.

Car Loans or Financing is a key part of the car buying story, and is the  question about car loans often do not have easy answers.

Let’s start with the biggest concern around pre-owned cars : their presumably high rate of interest Vs a new car loan.

The interest rate on used car loans typically starts at 13% and could go upto 19.50% depending upon customer profile and the age or segment of the car. If you have maintained a good credit score, the interest rate will most like to be in the lower end of this spectrum. Interest rate on new car loans on the other hand range from approximately 8.9% to 15.5 %, subject to your profile and credit score, just like any other loan. These rates however can vary from lender to lender. While people often choose to avail a loan directly from banks and NBFC’s, but Used car dealers are now aggressively leveraging their partnerships to offer customers tailored finance solutions that cater to their varying needs.

The illustration on New Honda City Vs Pre – owned Honda City clearly shows the savings.

New Honda city ZX MT available @ 16 Lakhs (on road price), The same car driven just 12,000 km in the pre – owned car market comes at Rs.12 Lakhs.

Let’s compare that to an 8.50 % interest on the new Honda City and find out whether the difference is worth fretting about. (Note: Not every one gets a new car loan at a rate of interest as low as 8.50% like any other loan, it largely depends on customer credit profile and income)

The airbag system is one of the most effective auto safety systems ever invented. Most cars built since 1994 have at least driver's side air bag, and almost all newer cars have both driver and passenger air bags, as standard  some cars have even 6 - 8 airbags for extra safety ( only in premium segment). The system primarily works on sensors to detect any frontal impact , in some cars this includes side / back side impact as well. There is a knee bolster  on the driver's side to absorb energy, and a collapsible steering column. The system kicks in if an impact equals or exceeds the force of a collision between a car traveling at 10 km per hour and above.  The sensor trigger an inflator, which causes a solid chemical propellant to undergo a rapid chemical change that produces nitrogen gas. The gas quickly inflates the woven nylon airbag, which inflates fully in about 1 - 5 seconds, immediately after inflation  it begans to slowly deflate so that you won't suffocate due to the air bag's pressure near your nostrils and also  helps you to get out of the car. 

But a word of caution are in order, however, air bag's don't  eliminate  the usage of seat belts, since they are effective only in case of a frontal collisions, though some cars have side air bags. 

Also you should never place a child in the front seat of a vehicle equipped with a passenger-side air bag, recent evidence shows that the force of an expanding air bag can badly injure small passengers.  

Seat belts are placed under tremendous stress during an accident, especially if the impact was serious enough to deploy the air bag. Your bodyshop and insurace surveyor should inspect the seat belt material around the areas of greatest stress : the guides, retainers, buckles, and retractors. if the fabric looks worn, stretched, cut or, fatigued , or if the protective plastic covers of the guides show any type of wear, replacement of the entire seat belt assembly will be necessary.

A fire extinguisher in your car is a great idea, but store it right. Temperatures in a car baking in the summer sun can soar,damaging the extinguisher. Units manufactured in the last 10 years that carry the underwriters laboratories (UL) logo have passed over heating tests. Even so, keep any fire extinguisher in the trunk, out of direct  sunlight. Don't let it roll around the back there, either, most come with a mounting bracket. Buy a unit that has a pressure guage and be sure to check it every month.

OIL truly is "black gold" , It's so valuable to engines, in fact, that without the stuff we'd still be riding horses down to the mall (although presumable parking would be easier to find).

Like many things automotive, there's a lot of misinformation and mythology associated with oil. Can you use recycled oil ?...Will synthetic oils really lasts for 25000 k.m ? Sure but dont't  wait that long before changing  it. What's good about dirty oil ?  Dirt shows that the oil is working the way it should, but too dirty isn't good.

Your car or truck needs more lubricants and fluids than just oil, too, and you'd better know what ( & where) they are if you want to enjoy trouble-free motoring. 

One ltre of waste oil can contaminate up to 2 million gallons of water. Never dispose of used oil by pouring it down a drain !!!!!!

Motor oil, an engine life blood, is truly an amazing substance and is being improved all the time. It cleans, lubricates, cools and cushions moving engine parts while holding sludge and chemical contaminants in suspension until your next oil change. Oil has the ability to increase the fuel economy and to prevent the build up of deposits, rust, corrosion, and oxidation. Motor oil is made up of about 80% to 90% base stock (lubricants), with the rest being active ingredient  additives.

Only two viscosities are recommended for newer vehicles :  5W-30 and 10W-30. These multigrade oils can perform in a wide range of temperatures, Multigrade 5W-30 flows easier at lower ambient (outside) temperatures. Oil rated 10W-30 is necessary when ambient temperatures are likely to be 100 ° F or higher. Single-grade oils have temperature limitations and will not flow easily at lower temperatures, causing premature engine wear. Generally, though, its not necessary to switch weights as the weather changes if you're using 5W-30 or 10W-30.

Most manufacturers recommend 5W-30 for their vehicles that have an overhead camshaft. Because of its fluidity, 5W-30 easily reaches the upper part of the engine, providing adequate lubrication t the camshaft. Most manufacturers recommend the use of 10W-40 in their turbo-charged engines because turbos create tremendous heat that can thin out and break down oil sooner than a regular engine.  Single 30 -weight oil can be used where the temperature is always above 40 ° F. As always, consult your vehicle owners manual, or call your dealer, for the correct grade of oil to use.

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The best advice about oil ? Be religious about changing

 it according the schedule in your owner's manual.

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Is synthetic oil really that good ? And is it true that using the stuff could void your warranty ? Here are the facts.

Synthetic oil has been around for over 60 years and is formulated out of hydrocarbons manufactured from natural gas or crude petroleum. It has been widely used by defence for military vehicles, which is good in extreme temperature conditions. Synthetic oil doesn't thicken under extreme cold, and it also stands up better than "natural" oil under extreme heat.

What's more important for you is that synthetic oils let you go longer between oil changes. One brand, for example, is supposed to maintain its lubricating qualities for 10000 km. However, regular oil filter replacement will be necessary to removed trapped contaminants and fresh oil added to bring the il level back to the full mark.

Additives - OK ?

If you feel it's necessary touse an oil additive, check with your dealer to be sure it won't void your warranty. Some additives, especially some engine oil supplements, become so thick in cold temperatures that they can't flow fast enough to protect the enire engine.

Before using any additive, please read and follow all label instructions. Don't us the old "if one is good, two is better" route here. Just remember that additives aren't overhauls in a can. They are, at best, only a temporary fix.

Dirt and sludge 

Excessive sludge in the enine makes it difficult for the oil pupm to maintain adequate oil pressure, which can lead to costly repairs. Mechanics may allege that sludge build up is a result in large part of paraffin-based oils, and that it's the paraffin that causes sludge, nonsense, sludge forms when you don't change the oil and oil filter, PCV valve and air filter on time, or if you use a poor quality oil

All high-quality motor oils are made from crude oils that contain one of three hydrocarbons, one of which is paraffinic. Paraffin is not the cause of  sludge, nor does it mean wax. Paraffins is the name of a family of hydrocarbons that are relatively stable and  resistant to the chemical changes that take place inside an engine. This means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear.

Surviving a quickie oil change

Nowadays it seems as if ther's a fast oil change franchise on every busy corner. Many are very good. Unfortunately, they often rely on unskilled workers who are under pressure to turn things around fast, so you have to be careful. To make sure your quick oil change won't  lead to other problems or end up costing you more thatn expected, keep these things in mind:

• Call ahead and confirm that the shop has the correct oil and fluids in stock for your vehicle, and that only branded  filters are used. 

• Make sure they use the correct type and viscosity of oil, as listed in your owner's manual.

• Use only branded oil and watch to make sure that what you asked for is what's actually installed.

• Watch them work, rather thatn wandering into a waiting room and reading the newspaper- that keep service guys honest.

• Keep things simple. Don't authorize any work other than the oil change or such easy maintenance as a raditor flush/refil.

• If your first impression is that the workers or business is disorganised, sloppy, or dirty go elsewhere.

• When the're done, review their work: Start the enine: get out and look for leaks at the oil filter. If no leaks are obvious, pull into the parking lot, stop the engine, and after a few minutes, check the oil level and any other fluid levels they checked.

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The best advice about oil ? Be religious about changing it according the schedule in your owner's manual.

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Filter Replacement guide

Your vehicles survives as long as they do despite the conditions in which they have to operate, because a number of filters defend them. Replacing those filters at these recommended intervals, which may be more conservative than the manufacturer's specifications, remain your cheapest guarantee of trouble free operation. The owner's manual for your vehicle is the best guide to replacement intervals, but if it's missing or you just need a little reminder, here's a guide to working with filters.

Other Fluids and Filters

When to replace transmission fluid : Automatic transmissions are complicated and expensive to repair. They require periodic filter and fluid changes just like the engine, and these are best done by  the dealer rather than by a quickie oil change place. YOur owner's manual has specific recommendations, but there are some tips on how to tell when it's time for a change, regardless of mileage. 

Drip a few drops of the transmission fluid into a clean white piece of paper towel. Here's what these spots will tell you.

• Clear, pinkish red, or green ( colour varies by type used) : When it looks like this, it's probably still OK.

• Looks like a strawberry milkshake  :You probably have a leak that's letting coolant to mix with transmission fluid.  Get it fixed -- the repair is inexpensive.

• Dark reddish brown : If it has a burnt aroma and looks burnt, the fluid is overdue for a change.

• Metal particles visible : This may be a sign of high wear and damage. Some metal debris is normal, so first get the fluid and filter changed right away. Drive a few thousand kilometers, then change fluid and filter again. If you still see debris, take the car to your dealer for an evaluation and possible overhaul. 

Brake fluid

Brake fluid can absorb mosture from the air, even if kept in a sealed container. Excess moisture turns brake fluid cloudy and lowers its boiling point. Accumulated mosture in a brake hydraulic system causes steel brake componenets to rust and rubber seals to swell and deteriorate, further contaminating this vital fluid. The result is a brake pedal that feels spongy or worse, loss of braking power. Contaminants are bad news for antilock brake system pumps, motors, and solenoids.

Brake fluid is often the most overlooked safety item in a car. All major manufacturers recommend replacing brake fluid every 40000 km or 2 years.

Power Steering

Lack of lubrication will kill a power-steering pump, rack, or gear. Power steering hydraulic fluid, of course, is the medium that provides the power assist to steering. But it also lubricates the steering system.

Unless the reservoir is empty, you'll still have power steering. Low fluid level will often produce a loud whining / growling noise from the power steering pump. 

While checking the power steering fluid level, place a few drops on a clean white paper rag or paper towel. Metal dust caused by a failed or failing part will cause the fluid to turn a silvery grey colour. After repairs, flush the system with clean fluid. 

That billowing cloud of steam from the front of the car, and the ominous flashing light on the dashboard or needle stuck in the redzone of your engine's temperature gauge, both mean the same thing: The engine is on the verge of meltdown.  Cool down the engine before it goes nuclear and it'll probably escape permanent harm. Here's what to do ...

• Turn off the air conditioner and turn on the heater full blast. This pulls heat from the engine. If you're in stop-and-go-traffic, take the next exit or side road so you can drive faster to get air moving through the radiator. Even if the engine begins to cool back to normal, stop soon to check the coolant level.

• If the engine continues to get hotter or if steam is coming from the engine compartment, pull off the road, shut off the engine, open hood, Wait 20 minutes before inspecting the radiator and hoses for leaks - they are really hot ! Refill the radiator after another 20 minute wait. Add water or coolant by pouring it in to the overflow tank. (Never add either to a hot engine unless the engine is running : you could damage the engine block,) If there's no overflow tank, flip up the lever of the radiator cap with a have rag or loosen it slightly; then quickly stand back. If the radiator is still steaming, let it cool before adding water or coolant. 

• With the hood still up, start the eninge and examine the radiator and hoses for leaks. You can sometimes fix for a leaky hose using  hose-repair-kit that will get you to a service station. If you can't fix the hose, or if the radiator is leaking (or if the engine wont start), call a tow truck. If you continue to run an engine that's over-heating, you will destroy it.

The first hint of trouble is the wisp of steam rising from under the hood. Clue two is the pungent aroma of antifreeze. Before you know it, you're stranded.

What now ?

Well, if you have an emergency kit in the trunk, you'll be back on the road again soon. Stash these tools and products in a box or a plastic bucket:

• a pair work gloves

• a jack knife or utility knife

• slotted - and  Phillips  - head screwdrivers

• a few hose clamps

• a large pair of pliers 

• two types of hose repair kits (radiator hoses are about 2 inches in diameter; heater hoses are less than an inch in diameter)

• the old hoses from the last time you had the hoses changed

• a jug containing a 50:50 mix of water and antifreeze 

• a flashlight, with extra batteries still in their package

Quick hose repairs. Before attacking the problem, let the engine cool down. Make sure you and the vehicle are in a safe position. Wearing gloves, slowly and carefully open the radiator cap to release the pressure.

If the leak is near the end of a hose, just on the other side of a clamp, your best bet is to shorten the hose. Loosen the clamp and slide it our of the way. Slice the hose from its edge to the damage, and peel it off the outlet. Slip the hose back into the fitting, slide the clamp in place, and tighten it. Top off the coolant system from your jug.

Bigger problems. Unfortunately, many hose failures don't occur near the clamp. That's when you need an inexpensive hose repair kit. The kits for heater or radiator hoses cost less than Rs.300/-  each at an auto parts store, and include a pair of hose clamps with two different size couplings. Just cut our the damaged section of hose, slip the exposed ends of the remaining hose into a coupling, and install the hose clamps. Add coolant and you'll be on your way.

Complete hose failure. If a hose ruptures, making any type of repair impossible, those old spare hoses will be priceless, Let the engine cool, remove the clamps, and pull of the damaged hose. Slip the pair into place, tighten the clamps, and add coolant.

Heater hoses. Your engine really doesn't need to circulate coolant through the heater core for safe operation, so immediate repair is not absolutely necessary. Instead, you can cut the damaged section of the hose and plug the open ends with bolts, tool handles, even spare spark plugs ; anything solid, clamped securely in place will get you hack on the road.

While any of these repairs will get you moving again, they're temporary only. Head directly to a service station for a permeenant  repair job and full replacement of lost coolant. 

Identifying leaks

Many different fluids leak our of your car.  To help identify them, place a plastic container where the leak occurs,  or if the leak is very small, a piece of white paper to capture its colour.

Leaks are identified by physical evidence - smell, colour, texture etc; once the source is identified, sometimes simply tightening a clamp or bold may solve the problem.

COOLANT : Usually green or yellow liquid with a sweet pungent odor. Old collant will be rusty or dirty brown. Look for leak at the radiator, upper and lowe radiator hoses, heater hoses and engine core plugs.

GEARBOX : Usually a light red or brownish  red oil. Compare it to the colour, smell, and the feel of the oil on the transmission dipstick. Check around the pand and external seals for leakage.

BATTERY ACID : If it has a rotten - egg, sulfur like odor, it's  probabily sulfuric acd leaking from the battery. Highly corrosive - if it touches skin or clothing, flush immediately with water.

BRAKE FLUID : Clear, thin, almost water like. Leaking brake fluid is a danger sign requiring immediate attention. Get to the workshop.

 DIESEL / PETROL FUEL: The aroma can be easily detected. Check the injector pump, fuel filter, and fuel lines. 

GEAR OIL: A heavyweight oil, usually dark or black ( a ight tan when fresh ) Used in manual transmissions, axles, and differentials, may show up on the CV axle boots of front wheel drive vehicles. 

GREASE:  Very thick, sticky. Minor leakage after a routine grease job is normal.

POWER STEERING FLUID: Power steering fluid that'salmost the same colour as fresh motor oil, but slightly thinner and has a distinctly dirrerent smell. Fluid that turns silvery gray indicated an internal failure of the powr steering system. Have this checked our as soon as possible.

SHOCK ABSORBER FLUID : It usually shows up as a dark stain on the shock body itself. Check all shocks. If leakage is found, replace the shock.

WATER: If it looks and smells like clear water, it's condensation from the air conditioner.

WINDSHIELD WASHER SOLVENT : Bluish in colour, it smells of detergent or alcohol. Persistent leakage indicates a cracked fluid reservoir or a leaking hose between the tank and the wind shield washer nozzles. Washer solvent is poisonous.

• Avoid frequent gear changing, sudden acceleration & braking.

• Avoid drigving on low gears

• Maximize use of 4 or 5 or 6 ( if available) gear in city driving.

• Do not use the clutch pedal as foot rest. It will result in faster clutch wear.

• Get the brakes checked, if they are too hard or too soft while pressing.

• Ensure always parking brakes are released before driving.

• Avoid idle running of car engine ore that 1 minutes at traffic signals.

• For AT mission, move the gear lever from "D" position to "N" position at traffic signal.

• Tyres ahould be inflated to correct pressure.

• Do periodic maintenance as per service schedule recommended by Dealer.

• Use only branded genuine oil for engine / Transmission , Brakes & Radiator coolant, it will increase performance.

• Do not do any unauthorized modification in vehicle.

• For getting the exact quantity of fuel, kindly fill the fuel in morning because gasoline density varies with ambient temperature.

• Don't drive at higher speeds,  with windows wide open. It increased the aerodynamic drag.

• Avoid aggressive driving, over speeding.

• Avoid placing objects on the roof top, it will increase the aerodynamic drag.

• Try to change the gears as per below speed recommendation.

A combination of knowledge, skills and attitude is required to be a safe driver. Knowledge of traffic rules, good driving practices & a healthy attitude of co-operation with other road users help traffic moves safely & smoothly. We must be caurteous giving other drivers space to change lanes, not cutting them off and signalling before turning.

BEFORE DRIVING. 

• Ensure that you are comfortable with your mental and physical condition.

• Inspect your vehicle and observe the driving conditions

• While driving you should carry your driving licence, registration certificate, Insurance certificate ( all xerox copy only)

• Ensure your vehicle pollution control certificate is valid.

PHYSICAL AND MENTAL ALERTNESS.

Ensure you are in good physical and mental condition to undertake the drive.

Do not drive if you

• have been drinking alcohol.

• taking any medicine or drug that affects your responses.

• are tired as tiredness affects your driving skills and reaction time.

• are sick or injured.

• are angry or upset.

You could be risking your life or lives of others on the road or in your car.

KNOW YOUR VEHICLE.

Ensure you are familiar with the instruments and controls of the car, and their operations & functions. Check that all emergency signals and instruments work. You should be able to turn on wipers, washers, headlights, indicators etc. without having to look at them and without taking your eyes off the road.

SITTING POISTION

A comfortable driver is a safe driver. Proper, upright sitting position gives more stability while driving. Make sure you can see over the steering wheel and hood. You should be able tp see the ground 4-5 feet in front of the vehicle for proper judgement. Sit straight upright in the seat with your elbows slightly bent. Adjust the seat so your feet reach the pedals easily. Place your feet (left) flat on the floor under the clutch  pedal, you are seated properly if if you can do this. Adjust head rest to proper height. It protects you from neck injury in case of a collision. Air bag can cause injury if the sitting position is incorrect.

LIGHTS

Turn on headlights at night and in poor light conditions. Do not use the high beam unnecessarily, it is not only dangerous for oncoming traffic but also mostly in contravention of traffic rules in our country. Turn on headlights around 30 minutes before sunset and keep them on until 30 minutes after sunrise. Turn on your lights when for or rain reduces your visitbility to less than 100 meters. Keep your headlights clean and get them adjusted regularly s ahat they aim properly. In dim light, use your headlights, not parking lights. Parking lights are only for parking.

1

Official Web Portal of Government of India

https://www.india.gov.in/

2

Official Web Portal of Government of Kerala

https://www.kerala.gov.in/

3

Hon'ble Minister for Transport Kerala - website

http://minister-transport.kerala.gov.in/

4

Kerala Police

https://keralapolice.gov.in/

5

Kerala Forest Department

http://www.forest.kerala.gov.in/

6

Kerala State Road Transport Corporation

https://www.keralartc.com/

7

Automotive Research Association of India (ARAI)

https://www.araiindia.com/home

8

Ministry of Road Transport & Highways

http://morth.nic.in/

9

Transport Department - AP

http://www.aptransport.org/

10

Transport Department - Delhi

http://www.delhi.gov.in/wps/wcm/connect/DoIT_Transport/transport/home

11

Transport Department - Tamilnadu

http://www.tn.gov.in/sta/

12

Transport Department - Karnataka

http://transport.karnataka.gov.in/

13

Directorate of Transport - Goa

http://ww3.goatransport.com/

14

Transport Department - Pondichery

http://www.pon.nic.in/citizen/transp/introduction.htm

15

Transport Department - Maharashtra

https://www.maharashtra.gov.in/Site/Home/Index.aspx

16

Transport Department - Rajasthan

http://www.transport.rajasthan.gov.in/content/transportportal/en.html

17

Transport Department - Madhya Pradesh

http://www.mptransport.org/MPTS/Default.htm

18

Motor Vehicles Department - Orissa

http://as2.ori.nic.in:8080/web/

19

Institute for drivers training and research

https://idtrkerala.com

20

Traffic Guru Kerala Police -Traffic awareness simulator App

Traffic Guru App

21

Know Your Vehicle 

https://vahan.parivahan.gov.in/vahanservice/